Paris in May

Not so long ago, we visited the City of Light for the second time in my life during a period of reflection within the country upon the Charlie Hebdo shootings. The national mood was one of hope at this point that the shootings were a hurdle, perhaps more a discussion about the right to the freedom of expression amid charges of anti-Muslim sentiments than anything else. It is never more appropriate that I should dedicate this post to a city that will not let the Friday the 13th bombings and attacks in the 11th Arrondissement as well as the Stade de France define it. 

As one Charlie Hebdo cartoonist just illustrated, "Friends from the whole world, thank you for the #PrayForParis, but we don't need more religion. Our faith goes to music! Kisses! Life! Champagne and Joy! #ParisIsAboutLife." Through fog and mist filled days and nights, the weekend of May 1st was one of exuberant exploration for five very diverse people consisting of Muslims, Americans, Germans, Chinese, Agnostics, and Malaysians exercising this very paradigm in a place that is, in my opinion, one of the best at actualizing all the wonders of the imagination. Mistaken for excess, Paris is but the embodiment of realized creativity to the tenth degree and all the violence in the world can't stop the minds behind it. Paris and cities like it will always live on in the proliferation of its culture and ideology. We as people need to learn that these are things we can never burn to the ground, no matter what side we are on.

After a walk around town to shake off the long drive, we stop into a petite bistro for some hearty French staples.

Scallop risotto with rosemary.

Roasted beef marrow with a red wine sauce and thyme. So rich and satisfying with some crusty bread slices on a cold night.

Mario got homemade lobster ravioli.

Perhaps I should have skipped this after the decadent bone marrow dish but I couldn't resist the foie gras terrine with berry compote--so delicious with red wine.

After dinner, we trekked over to the national treasure built by the architect of World Fair fame, Gustav Eiffel, who also helped design the Statue of Liberty.  Even though I'd already seen this on my 2006 trip here with my cousins, the Eiffel Tower remains a wonder to behold, especially at night.

Cold and misty, we gather for one last photo before catching the light show and heading home.

The light show that happens every hour on the hour for five minutes.

Confections beckon.

Since we didn't take a good look at the Arc in 2006, we decided this would be our main touristy stop of the trip. 21 sculpted roses adorn the ceiling of the Arc. The walls are lined with the names of generals and wars that ended in victory.

Finished in 1836, this monument to all the war victories of France as well as all who fought and perished for France has seen its share of exciting events including the passing through of the remains of Victor Hugo and Napoleon Bonaparte on their way to the cemeteries and the flying of a biplane through the Arc by Charles Godefroy in 1919. 

On each side of the Arc's pillars are sculptures depicting important moments in French history, this one being the resistance of France to Allied forces during the War of the Sixth Coalition that led to Napoleon's exile and abdication. You get an E for Effort, Napoleon!

The design draws from the Roman Arch of Titus in Rome.

There are only two arches bigger than the Arc de Triomphe, the first in North Korea and the second in Mexico City.

The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier is a memorial to all unidentified soldiers who have ever perished in a war. We just happened to visit the Arc on the anniversary of the memorial's inauguration on May 2, 1840.

Why did it take us so long to come back to Paris again? The stairs to the top didn't open for another hour so we head to a local cheese shop to pick up some souvenirs.

A dragee bar = so French.

Fromagerie at 7 Rue Poncelet in Paris. We bought a tantalizing Charolais cheese and the Bouyguette here in the foreground that we are still dreaming about as well as an Epoisse, Mimolette, and truffle cheese that were fragrant with delicious stinkiness.

Everything to excite the eyes and taste buds at the farmers market near the cheese shop.

You could just stack everything up in boxes or pyramids, but why would you when you can stop people in their tracks with this display?

After we drop the cheese off at home, we head over to the Arc for some 360 degree views of the city.

We noticed that each of the twelve radiating avenues running from the Arc have buildings at the Arc-facing point with similar building facades.

You can think of the Arc and its linchpin position on the Axe Historique as the rug that ties all of Paris together.

World War I monument under the Arc with surrounding walls covered in brass laurel wreaths, symbols of victory.

"La Marseillaise," cast head for the sculpture by Francois Rude.

We accidentally find the Palais-Royal while looking for a boutique. Those black and white painted columns are an art piece by Daniel Buren that was highly controversial at the time of its conception in 1986.

Les Deux Plateau, constructed over what was once a parking lot, is an art piece comprised of concrete blocks and columns, some extending below the grating you see here to pools of water below into which tourists throw coins.

Supposed to be an exercise in space perception, the art piece apparently conceals air shafts and costs quite a bit to keep up. It's impractical and lovely--I like it!

Where to next, boys?

Cool fountain in the courtyard at the Palais-Royal. Beyond that you can see the gardens.

Just across the way is the Louvre's art museum.

Getting a little lost looking for this boutique, but that's part of the fun while exploring a complex city like Paris. You always end up discovering something new that you wouldn't have seen if you planned everything out.

Bathing pigeons at the Place du Carrousel.

The other Arc, the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel in the Place du Carrousel, was built around the same time as the more famous Arc to commemorate Napoleon's victories. It took a lot less time to finish though since it's twice as small.

Relief sculpture between arches at the Place du Carrousel.

The Seine.

A sculpting school we pass while exploring.

Wandering around the 6th Arrondissement.

St. Germain des Prés, one of the oldest churches in Paris, is a small remnant of what used to be a large abbey which has long since been destroyed and forgotten.

We stop for Lebanese food at a random restaurant that turned out to be great. I got the vegetarian plate that was bursting with fresh flavor and ingredients: falafel, börek, tomato dip, tabouli, baba ganoush, plain hummus and a roasted eggplant dip with bulgar in the middle. I got a "white coffee" here which ended up being hot rose water. Live and learn.

Dinner that night took place at a restaurant inside the Gare de Lyon train station.

Loving the turn of the century architecture of this place, finished in 1900 for the World Expo and reminiscent of the Eiffel Tower that was completed only eleven years earlier.

Le Train Bleu restaurant, a lesson in decadence.

Everything was so lovely, we couldn't stop taking pictures.

A little vogueing in Paris!

Appetizer salad of endive on mango gelée with lime vinaigrette was the best part of the meal.

A menu that changes seasonally, I ordered the rustic spring meal of cod in a cream bath with white beans and spring vegetables. Pure comfort food.

Marché aus Puces de Saint Ouen, the first flea market that was indoors and more wondrous because of it. Here, photos and prints spanning centuries. Wish I had more than two hours to scour this place!

Such an amazing array of goodies.

The stalls are set up in little vignettes by shop and magical to behold.
I wanted to buy everything in this booth.

Out of this world.

I ended up getting the sister Limoges container to this apothecary jar that reads, "Extract of Opium" in French on the front. A little research later revealed these containers were from a well renowned French pharmacist by the name of Paul Métadier who developed a cure-all pill for aches and pains in the 20's that made him super rich although the main ingredient was a nephrotoxin--pharmaceuticals containing this particular toxin wouldn't be pulled off shelves until the 80's. Métadier became wealthy enough in his time to move to Royan, a small coastal town in France, where he opened up a private pharmacy where this container came from and even purchased a castle that was once the refuge of the famous French writer, Balzac.

Mussels from the chain, Léon de Bruxelles, hit the spot after the flea market.

Some treats from Boulangerie-Patisserie Passion Forest, a little patisserie off the beaten path close to the apartment we were staying in, made our drive home that much more manageable.
#ParisIsAboutLife