Florence, Pisa, & Carrara

Second stop: 5 Days in Florence 

   

The second leg of this trip was full of surprises. As I mentioned in Part 1, with Priscilla's background as senior instructor at the University of Colorado, Boulder, specializing in all things Italian including Italian art and introduction to Italian literature, knowing the local language literally opened doors since Priscilla speaks Italian. 

In one instance, Priscilla went one afternoon to the Bargello museum in Florence only to find it was closed for a private conference. It was the third time three years in a row that she had been there to try to see Donatello's David, but for various reasons it had always been closed. When the lady at the front noticed Priscilla didn't have a ticket, she stopped her. After Priscilla expressed how disappointed she was and said in Italian, "What if I just said I was going in for the conference?" the lady went ahead and waved her in. Priscilla was able to have the entire empty museum to herself as the conference convened in another area which was, needless to say, a dream thanks to somebody who was nice enough to break the rules a little. When she was done with her date with David as well as Ghiberti's bronze doors, Priscilla told the ticket lady that she was an art history teacher who just had her day made, to which the lady replied, "Mi fa piacere!" or, "My pleasure!" Such experiences are less likely to happen in countries that are more straight laced, but then again the people in such countries that play by the book might be more punctual and reliable.

What I have learned living in Europe for six years is that every country thinks it's number one. Each country, whether it be the U.S., Italy, Germany, or Spain, has its own opinions of what makes it better than all other countries. But what became clear to me, particularly on this trip, is that every perceived strength has a direct correlation to a perceived weakness and vice versa. Characteristics like punctuality and a strict adherence to rules can be seen as inflexibility and squareness, being laid back can be viewed as laziness, having a friendly talkative manner can be construed as stupidity or loudness, and having a quiet nature can be conceived as aloofness or coldness--you get the idea. It is a package deal, however, and not unlike dissecting a brain: cut out the part of the brain responsible for lying, and you take away the ability to problem solve and plan as well. It is similar when it comes to the virtues of a country, one has to accept the good with the bad and just enjoy a country for its uniqueness. What is perceived as a weakness in one situation can be a strength in another; it is all circumstantial. 

With that in mind, there were many moments in Italy in which we looked at each other in amazement and said to ourselves that these moments couldn't have happened anywhere else. Priscilla's case in point, what made the lady at that art museum look the other way may be questionable or unacceptable to those who think breaking the rules leads to chaos. In many instances that may well be the case--but on that particular day, it was a simple and welcome act of kindness that wasn't hurting anyone, and led to an extra special experience Priscilla would likely not otherwise have had. In a country where heaven meets earth and artists strive to recreate gods out of marble, it seems it's easier for Italians to grasp where the mundane meets the magical.

First class train to Florence from Rome wasn't expensive and included a glass of Prosecco.

First view of the Ponte Vecchio as seen from the Ponte alle Grazie.

We arrive at the little palazzo at Via delle Caldaie, 8. The Bucciolini Palace is available for rent here and is surprisingly affordable.

I mean, look at this place! Sumptuous accommodations in a historic building with frescoes painted in the 17th century.

Quiet and just a stone's throw outside of the touristy center, we really loved this home away from home. The beds were also very comfortable and it was quiet at night.

The piazza Santo Spirito is just a few steps from the palazzo and offered up quite a variety of culinary options from sit-down restaurants, a pizzeria, a liquor/convenience store, plus a farmers market and flea market depending on the day. Borgo Antico is just one of the restaurants that seemed bustling with happy diners so we decide to give it a try. Squid gnocchi in a sage butter sauce really hit the spot; gnocchi's were not homemade but they were still really tasty!

We walk the city to get a better sense of its layout and hunt for locally made Florentine stationery.

Reveling in the afternoon warmth next to the Arno.

View on the Arno.

Quick stop in the historical Gilli cafe for some refreshments and delectable sweets from their confections assortment. Opened by a Swiss family during the rule of the last duke of the Medici family in 1733, this cafe can only be summed up with one word--lavish! Everything is picture perfect and the setting superb, even if you have to drink the coffees standing up at their bar to avoid the €3.50/person coperto.

Petting Porcellino to ensure a return to Florence.

Sun setting in a frescoed sky to another perfect day in Italy.

Entry room to the palazzo makes a grand impression. With wine bottle and glasses in hand, we "kids" venture out to the piazzo Santo Spirito in search of food.

Tameró, right in the piazza Santo Spirito near our palazzo.

Tameró was my favorite restaurant in Florence for this trip, mixing the old with the new using the best ingredients. The menu is constantly changing, but a few items are staples. Cooked fresh before your very eyes in an open kitchen, wild boar ragout with pappardelle and a zucchini tiger shrimp stir fry with cheese filled squid ink tortelli make for a welcome switch-up to more traditional fare. All pasta is homemade and absolutely delicious!

You can dine in the restaurant, but we ordered our food to-go from different restaurants respectively since we wanted to dine al fresco sitting on the fountain outside surrounded by the sights and sounds of the piazza.

We shared pizzas and pasta.

#winninginflorence

This shot of our brunch the next morning looks like a still-life painting. We also made one of the best caprese salads of our lives with fresh aromatic tomatoes bought from the farmers market that morning at the piazza Santo Spirito, as well as basil and fresh burrata from the local supermarket. Italian food is simple, but as always, the ripest and freshest ingredients are key. With the amazing weather, the lucky locals have access to this 24/7! It makes for unrivaled good eating.

After brunch we head out for an appointment with the David. Have you ever noticed that it's always the David and not just David? The grandness of the Florence Cathedral could not distract us from our main attraction of the day, the Accademia Gallery. 

The David, and rightly so.

Originally slated to stand in front of the Palazzo Vecchio in the Piazza della Signoria, the David was moved to the Accademia and replaced with a replica to avoid further damage by weather and ruffians.

Supposed to embody the rebel spirit of the city of Florence, David's piercing gaze originally faced Rome in defiance when he was still in front of the Palazzo Vecchio.

Coffee break after the museum!

June is a GREAT month to visit Florence, by the way. There are events galore and the celebration of their patron saint, San Giovanni Battista, is just one of them. Be sure to check The Florentine for a full list of all things planned for the month you visit before you go.

Festivities for the patron saint holiday include costumed parades as well as scheduled games of calcio storico, the 16th century Florentine more rough and tumble take on football/rugby that takes place in the Piazza Santa Croce in front of the Basilica of Santa Croce.

Traditional Florentine garmented paraders make an appearance for many national holidays on top of this one.

The parade assembles at the Palazzo Vecchio at the Piazza della Signoria, where the David was originally supposed to stand in front of.

The celebration of San Giovanni Battista, or Saint John the Baptist, culminates in a final calcio storico game as well as fireworks on the 24th. Be sure to plan your vacation around this epic holiday if you can. 

Some outdoor dancing to live music on this lovely summer evening.

Dinnertime! Harlan orders grilled octopus with black beans from Tameró.

Tender and delicious, this dish was just a little outside the ballpark of what we would consider Italian food.

I tried the culurgiones, a traditional Sardinian ravioli stuffed with potatoes, pecorino cheese, and mint. This version was served with bacon, squash blossoms, grilled squid, and a salted custard sauce--OFF. THE. HOOK. If you've never had these before, look them up. They're just as versatile as regular raviolis and just as delicious and filling, but that mint is what really makes your tastebuds do a double take. I'll have to try to make them one of these days.

Morning run to Priscilla's rave-run location in Florence of the Parco delle Cascine to start off the day. Great covered running once you're in the park, which was necessary on this particular day since it was heating up fast!

After breakfast, we walk around the city. Passed Roberto Ugolini, a traditional shoemaker in our very own Piazza Santo Spirito. Starting around $1500, they will make a wooden model of your foot with which they base all your future custom made shoes from.

Depending on the materials you choose, subsequent shoe orders can cost upwards of $500.

We just loved the vintage clubhouse appeal of the cozy shop.

People travel from around the world to get a pair of custom shoes or learn the trade from Roberto as we saw several students gathered around a work table diligently pounding leather around wooden foot moulds.

Mr. Ugolini himself attending to a regular customer from Asia. Having been in the business for more than eighteen years, he is so used to gawkers that he doesn't even bother to greet us nor shoo us out of his shop. Thanks for letting us linger in your awesome shop, Roberto!

Some street style encountered after lunch.

This poodle is an institution of Florence. It could care less about the hundreds of tourists who stop to pet it each day while it sits in front of this fragrance boutique.

Like a boss.

Stopped for a refreshment before heading to the Piazzale Michelangelo and met a new friend who bought us a Moscow mule at the bar in the Golden View restaurant.

The views from the Piazzale Michelangelo, stunning on this fine sunny day. Be sure to wear appropriate walking shoes to climb the steep hills on the short hike leading up to this outlook.

View of the Ponte Vecchio.

The bronze statue of the David facing Florence is the obvious namesake for the Piazzale Michelangelo on one of the highest points of the city. 

Olive trees everywhere, typical for this region of Italy, lend their familiar silver green color to the sun drenched landscape.

Basilica San Miniato al Monte, one of the oldest building structures with its Romanesque architecture.

A fantastic view coupled with beautifully kept grounds, the Basilica San Miniato is worth the trek. What more could you want?

"Go away or I shall taunt you a second time!"

Admiring the interior of the Basilica which has changed little since it was built in 1018.

The dark and cool tile and stone lined Basilica is a welcome respite from the heat outside.

Back in the middle of the city, we encounter a common sight: hordes of students on class trips.

The Piazza della Signoria. Here you will find the fountain of Neptune. Like most of the outdoor sculptures in Italy, the original Neptune sits in the National Museum for fear of damage from weather and vandalism like that of Aug. 4th, 2005, when the hand of Neptune was lopped off by vagrants.

Lighting candles for loved ones at the Dome in Florence.

A little wish from the heart takes light.

Another dinner at Borgo Antico in the piazza Santo Spirito. Spaghetti alle vongole, so fresh. 

The weather was warm but mild by this time in the evening--perfect for a gelato at Gelateria della Passera. They feature a variety of artisan flavors of the week like Orange Chocolate and Seven Spice. One of the best gelato places in town!

Gelato and then hanging out in front of the Palazzo Pitti. 

The next morning we were on our way to Pisa and Carrara. 

Priscilla's birthday is in June. When we asked her what she really wanted to see or do that she hasn't done yet in Italy--since, being there every year, she's seen so much of Italy already--she replied that the marble quarries of Carrara were still on the top of her list. We looked up things to do there and after watching some YouTube videos of ATV tours of the quarries, booked some train tickets to Carrara with the hope of getting Priscilla the tours as our gift when we arrived.

We decided to make a stop in Pisa since it was kind of on the way, because why not? The Arno again, just further west from Florence.

The town of Pisa, so ancient it has Etruscan roots.

It's only a short walk from the train station to the iconic tower.

Really just the bell tower to the Pisa Cathedral.

Built over a span of 199 years, the Leaning Tower of Pisa was completed in sections and leans because the base was built upon unstable soil from the get-go. It has since been reinforced in the 20th century, so don't worry about it tilting further.

Remus and Romulus with the she-wolf keep watch.

Although considered Romanesque in style, just like St. Mark's Basilica in Venice which was restored around the same time of 1063, there are decidedly very Byzantine influences to the architecture of the Pisa Cathedral. 

Carriages at the ready to take you around town or back to the train station.

View of the cathedral from the top of the tower.

It begins to pour as we enjoy the view of red rooftops.

Trying hard to stay dry.

I loved this image of the masses all huddled around this cathedral entrance.

The Pisa Baptistry, built later than the cathedral over an older baptistry and completed in 1363. There's apparently not much inside so you can skip this one if you're short on time.

A close up of the Byzantine mosaics and motifs of the Pisa Cathedral as well as the bronze doors that were added in the late 1500's.

Back to the train station we go!

So we arrive in Carrara to veritable tumbleweeds blowing in a deserted train station. There is no sign of a taxi, let alone tour services to rent those ATVs we promised Priscilla. A phone that said to "call this number for taxis" rang on itself when we tried to use it--joke's on us, since that was indeed the taxi stand devoid of taxis. The number was meant for people to take down to call from elsewhere. Disappointed but hopeful, we search for the next bus stop which was not more than a half a block away and wait for a bus to take us to the city center. We arrive to a city center just as deserted as the train station and decide to stop at a cafe for lunch and get our bearings. Lardo, the strips of white stuff, is a delicacy in this region and this plate as well as the bread was served as a free appetizer by our gracious smiling restaurant owners as we sat down.

We order some coffees and some dishes from the lunch counter at the front of the cafe as well as try the lardo, which isn't half bad if you like eating just the fat off of prosciutto. The owners proclaim that they sell "the best food in Italy!" Priscilla talks to the owner of the restaurant in Italian about our options for getting to the quarries. The owner was very helpful and called a friend who was the head of one of the quarries. By the tone of his voice, it sounded like the cafe owner was making headway with this friend of his on the phone, but once the friend heard we were five people he said his car could unfortunately accommodate only four more.

Resigned to hiking as far as we could to the quarry, we have lunch while Priscilla exchanges phone numbers with the owner of the cafe. Vegetable torta and pork stuffed peppers, hearty fare for the trek.

Scenes on the way up the mountain.

That's the ocean in the distance.

An hour into our hike, we realized we needed to take desperate measures to get up to the quarries since it would take too long to walk and we only had a few hours before our train back to Florence. So we started hitchhiking. Before long a guy in his thirties stopped and asked us what the trouble was, but wouldn't help us get to the top, either because he was unwilling to pack all five of us into his car, or because he was skeptical of our plight. We found out he was German while he was struggling to communicate with us in English, and his eyes nearly popped out of his head to hear three of us able to speak German. While we were still trying to convince him to take us in German, Priscilla got a call from the cafe owner. His friend who was head of a quarry had changed his mind and could take us after all.

Not a minute later, this black Opel sped up the hill and stopped abruptly next to the German guy who in turn drove off in relief. With a big grin on his face, the Opel driver got out of the car and let us know he was indeed the cafe owner's friend, Robertino, and proceeded to look Mario up and down and call him a bimbo. What the...? He and Priscilla speak together in Italian while he eyed our group a little incredulously.

Apparently, the cafe owner phoned Robertino back a while after we left the cafe and told him that the fifth person in our group was actually a little boy, just a baby really, in order for Robertino to agree to taking us in his car. The Italian term for a baby boy is bimbo. Robertino proceeded to call Mario a bimbo for the rest of our time with him, much to Mario's chagrin.

So we packed ourselves into the Opel, I on Mario's lap, and we clown-carred it up the mountain. Robertino is friendly to a fault and absolutely a blast to hang out with. He regaled us with stories from his job on the ride up while smoking and blowing the smoke out the window so as not to offend us.

Can you believe that Michelangelo's David and most of the other great marble sculptures of Italy were sourced out of the same stuff that came from these hills?

The view looks out over the town and it is just breathtaking. There was a slight drizzle that let up as soon as we started investigating our surroundings.

Robertino told us how to gauge what a good piece of marble looks like, what type of marble striations make for a good countertop, versus a bathtub, versus flooring, etc.

He took his time in showing us around and answering all of our questions.

Feeling a little dwarfed.

Robertino giving us the white glove treatment.

The marble is cut using a giant diamond wire saw, a process invented in the 50's and used to this day.

Still life at the quarry.

When asked about whether the workers needed to wear masks because of all the white dust that is constantly circulating--we couldn't have asked a more American question--Robertino laughed his deep raspy laugh and said he's a heavy smoker so did it really matter? Good point.

Plus, the locals and those who work the marble swear marble dust is healthy for you and take spoonfuls of the stuff for all sorts of ailments. To look at Robertino, it certainly seems to contribute to happiness as well.

Robertino's family lives not too far from the quarry so by the time we're about to leave he's already invited us over to dinner at his marble lined house to which we sadly had to decline since our train left at 5p. Imagine if we had the time to sit down to dinner with this guy, how awesome would that have been!

One last look at that million dollar view before heading down for refreshments.

We twisted through the winding roads, the same ones James Bond drives on in Quantam of Solace, to leave just one of many white marble quarries that cascade down the mountaintops of Cararra.

Some examples of the marvels of marble not far from the quarry at a shop selling souvenirs.

Loved how Harlan's scarf matched the wheels here.

A refreshment at the local cafe halfway down the mountain frequented by all the quarry workers during the week. Here is where Robertino takes his lunch every day. 

Robertino shouted, "Get the bimbo a milk!" Mario was not happy with this development. After a round of wine, we asked if he would be sober enough to drive us back down the mountain. He scoffed with a wave of his hand in front of his face and we all piled back into the car and drove through the famous tunnels in the mountains of Carrara. Video on my YouTube channel. This entire experience with Robertino was better than any ATV tour we could have purchased; it was obvious to all of us that it was priceless. He seriously wasn't expecting anything in return though, so we had to throw money in through the window of his parked car as we all hugged him good-bye. Robertino, maybe just looking to kill some time on a Saturday, maybe returning a favor for his cafe-owner friend, will have no idea just how much he contributed to making our trip unforgettable.

Loitering at Tameró yet again while waiting for them to prepare another meal for me to-go. I was ogling the handiwork of all their tortelli and other ravioli-like pastas and enjoying the industrial decor.

My final meal that they gave me half off on because, according to the owner of the place, "you've been here, like, every day!" Pasta pearl cous cous with lobster in a lick-every-drop-off-your-fingers-good tomato based lobster saffron sauce. A final random act of kindness since they knew I was leaving the next day, and no better way to end my Italian love affair for the year. We fly to London in the morning.